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Is smocking1 inherently evil? 2
The activity itself has political overtones – workers clothes and busy hands,
alongside the idea of the hidden and revelation through the process of creating
folds. 3
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1 - Smocking is an embroidery technique made by gathering cloth in regularly
spaced tucks, providing flexibility and form within a garment. The word smock,
derived from smock – a farmer’s work shirt is a modern spelling of an Old
English word "smocc" a verb meaning to gather fabric into unpressed
pleats by sewing in a honeycomb pattern. Eventually the word was used to refer
to both the sewing technique and the garments it produced.
Fry, Gladys Windsor. 1946 Embroidery and
Needlework. Pitman & Sons Ltd.
Every kind of smocking. 1985 (ed) Kit Pyman. Search
press.
2 - starting point for the project - Sitting in a restaurant, heatedly
discussing the role and presentation of folding and smocking within the clothes
represented in the paintings in the Academia in Venice. The individuals in the
paintings wearing smocked or folded garments appeared to have poor character
qualities, to be hiding notes, from a lower order etc. The activity itself has
political overtones – smocking – predominantly an activity undertaken by farm
workers to embellish their clothes, the idea of busy hands; subjugation through
craft, alongside the idea of the hidden through the process of creating folds.
It culminated in the question, was smocking inherently evil? This conversation
has developed over 2 years, starting off with a small body of bookworks
influenced by some of the smocking structures for a touring exhibition
organised by the Irish Crafts Council. This was almost subconscious but later a
show titled bookmare at Camberwell College of Art and the repeat show at
Norwich University College consciously started the process of exploring
smocking through the objects I make. A TESS funding application at what was
Norwich University College of the Arts led to a body of work shown at the Imago
gallery in London. A lot of meetings and conversations led me to some
really excellent people to work with within some interesting collections and
archives in East Anglia. This enabled a successful bid to the Arts Council to
spend a year working on the idea with a number of partners.
3 - “Folding-unfolding no longer simply means tension-release,
contraction-dilation, but enveloping developing, involution-evolution… The
simplest way of stating the point is by saying that to unfold is to increase,
to grow; whereas to fold is to diminish, to reduce, to withdraw into the
recesses of a world”.
Deleuze, Gilles. “The Fold-Leibniz and the Baroque: The Pleats of Matter.”
Architectural Design Profile No.102:
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